Pacific Swift 2009 - Trip 5

The final leg of the Pacific Swift´s annual circumnavigation began
yesterday in a surprisingly sunny and warm Ucluelet Harbour. There was
general murmur of excitement as an even split of new and returning
trainees boarded their floating home for the next 10 days. Safety
orientations moved along well with instruction in shipboard procedures,
line handling, steering and other necessities of shipboard life. Lines
were cast off by 1600 and we proceeded out of Ucluelet Inlet amid the
few remaining well wishers. There is but a short run till rounding out
of the inlet into the rolling pacific swell. The seas were relatively
calm though and a few intrepid souls climbed aloft to get a feel for the
rigging. The day was splendid; the emerald hills, peaks and valleys of
Clayquot Sound were fronted by the jagged coastline and sparkling
waters. Out in the calm and sunny waters offshore, we were treated to a
young and exuberant humpback whale displaying all his acrobatic skills,
as if saying proudly, "Look at me swimming!". There were myriad
breaches, flukes and flipper waves as we passed him by on our journey
northward to explore as much of the west coast as possible. The sun set
dramatically as the Island ranged through the many hues of purples and
greens and the stars emerged one by one as if cautiously testing the
night sky. The seas built a little in the evening to upset the tummies
of a couple trainees, however all took it in good stride and roused
themselves for the evening programme of games and singing. A favourable
forecast sent us slipping through the evening waters on a planned
nightrun to take us towards the Brooks Penninsula. The night was alive
with the luminescent displays of nature, stars shone brightly from
horizon to horizon, the milky way painted across the heavens as if by
some careless celestial artist, while below the phosphorescence ignited
our wake and the waves around us in fiery jade glow. To complete the
night the breeze came favourably  from the SE and we hoisted courses and
square topsail to the first promising puffs. In no time the breeze
filled and we were cruising around 8 knots as the stars slipped silently
back below the horizon. The experience of sailing through the night amid
such beauty is truly inspiring to all on board. That begrudged west
coast companion, fog, settled about us for much of the morning shrouding
everything in deep gray as we sped north. Near noon the breeze scudded
the mist low overhead as we spotted our landfall at Rugged Point. We
sailed right up to anchor and settled our hook in the welcoming and
sandy bottom. It´s a wild locale but offers nice shelter from wind and
seas. After lunch the dories were launched and trainees put ashore (with
a small detour for a wayward flip-flop), to the stable and sandy shores
of the point. A nice walk through the rain forest brought us to the long
sweeping arc of the main beach without a soul in sight. Driftwood
goalposts were promptly erected for ann energetic game of soccer, with
the port side narrowly edging out starboard for an extra-time win. As
dinner reaches it´s final simmer lessons on sail theory and buoyage are
wrapping up. Everyone is doing well and looking forward to a calm night
at anchor.

Getting underway at 0700 today we proceeded south on the 215 mile
journey to Victoria. Todays weather was a mixed bag, a little sun,
mostly cloud and one good dump of rain. The wind was contrary today so
we pushed down under power. We experienced the largest swells of the
trip today, but everyone was feeling much more comfortable with the
motion with a couple days under the belt to acclimatize. The coastal
peaks loomed in and out of the mist as it occasionally drew back it´s
smoky curtain. We had a welcome diversion of some salmon fishing, with
one escaping from the net and one hoisted triumphantly on board. A great
team effort had the fish out of the oven with in an hour of being caught
much to the delight of the poised forks and appetites. Nootka Island,
historic focal point of the west coast, hove in sight mid-afternoon.
Curious sea-otters took breaks from their relaxed dinning to gaze at the
Swift coasting into their familiar waters. After a sweeping rain squall
the dories put off to explore the mysterious coastline. It was a scene
reminiscent of the first days of discovery on the coast, the ship´s
boats fanning out to explore and the otters relaxed and unsuspecting
prior to their dessimation at the hands of the Europeans.  Discoveries
included a large sea cave and an old shipwrecked freighter dashed and
twisted into grotesque shapes. The calm, tranquil waters of Mary Basin
beckoned us deeper into Nootka Island offering the first stillness we
have experienced since Ucluelet. Everyone is in fine spirits and coming
together as watches and as a whole.

A great day and the classic example of the west coast at it´s
finest. Fore watch weighed anchor at 0630 beneath a promising sky
cleared of yesterday´s clouds. As we departed Nootka Island the sun set
gloriously, spilling it´s golden warmth from the evergreen valleys
surrounding us. The humpbacks and sea otters also stopped by to pay
their respects as the pacific swell once again rose beneath our hull.
The sun has remained shining all day and after standing offshore for
several miles we finally picked up the first ripples of the NW breeze.
Hands excitedly leapt aloft to loose topsails and swarmed the deck below
setting the main and fore course. It was great to have everyone feeling
well and lending a hand with hoisting and handling sail. Throughout the
afternoon we surfed down the rolling swell with white canvas billowing
against a clear sapphire sky. The fishing was exciting but fruitless as
a couple salmon were able to escape before they could be hauled into the
onrushing ship. One large humpback swam close alongside as we rounded
Estevan Point, gracefully surfacing before turning his flukes down for
the mysterious depths. We sailed right up to Hot Springs Cove withs the
ship being handled very smartly indeed to douse full sail on the run and
prepare to come alongside the dock. As dishes finish up to drifting
strains of mug-up songs, we are preparing to departed for the hot
springs. There is a lovely walk on a carved boardwalk through dense and
hoary temperate rain forest. The walk winds its way along the sharp
coastline till it emerges at the completley natural hot springs. A hot
waterfall cascades down the rock to form pools that descend towards the
open pacific and the fiery sunsets that quench upon its horizon. Nestled
between the rocky cliffs one settles into the pool of their choice,
finding just the right temperature or back rest. The hot and soothing
waters wash past taking all cares on their journey towards the sea.

We awoke today amidst a slowly lifting veil of west coast mist. We
decided to proceed north to rendez-vous with the Grace near the Brooks
Peninsula. The sun emerged triumphant mid-morning to the delight of
everyone on board. Tendrils of fog clung desperately to the wooded hills
of Kyuquot Sound as the dramatic scenery of the coast rolled by. We met
the Grace in a lonely cove on the Acous Peninsula. It is a very pretty
if resolute looking anchorage, fringed by the timeless sentinels of
craggy rock spires and desperate trees. Both ship´s companies put ashore
to prepare a beach feast.of hot dogs, spanish paella, fresh buns and
greek salad. A natural sauna was also made to ease the aching muscles of
the sea-borne sailors.  The ships companies relaxed and mingled freely
as they spent time together ashore gazing out at the ships anchored
easily in the diminished swell. The evening will be spent together
playing big games and a wild and raucous mug-up sing.
One salmon also regained his freedom after sensing impending captivity.

Drowsy trainees gently rubbed their leaden eyelids after an
unprecedented opportunity to sleep in this morning. A delicious
breakfast of berry topped fresh banana pancakes settled well into our
stomachs after a calm night at the dock. We traveled deep into Clayquot
Sound´s sheltered inlets to allow for some contrary weather to pass by
the coast. The steep, narrow and densely wooded shoreline is reminiscent
of the inner coast with the addition of the ragged cedars and gray
ghosts. We holed up for the day in Pretty Girl Cove. It is nestled
amongst steep forested hills and is completely free of any evidence of
human interference. After lunch the juniors settled in to write their
sail training exams and the intermediates prepared for their upcoming
tests.  The highlight of the day undoubtedly was an expedition deep into
the surrounding rain forest. Once the dories dropped us off on the
slim shore, two steps plunged us into the awaiting old growth. Leaving
the sea behind we blazed a trail beside a creek bed with an inspiring
sense of the grandeur looking down upon us from the towering cedars and
the dense salal while the fresh water stream danced between mossy
boulders. After a reasonable hike the forest opened up into a clearing
boasting many fresh water pools fed by tumbling streams and waterfalls.
With some trepidation we discovered that the water was wonderfully warm
and soon people slipped into the pools and enjoyed a massage from the
cascading water. It was a place as raw as it was beautiful, embodying a
sense of the wildness and purity of the west coast. It was overall a
wonderful experience and very unifying for everyone as a group. We were
rewarded with a meal of fresh pizza upon rowing back to our now familiar
floating home. With the Swift resting gently on her rode in the calm
waters, the sound of streams trickling into the cove and cedars watching
patiently, one could imagine being taken back 200 years.

Last night we enjoyed a high energy mug-up; thrilling games and
boisterous singing, a perfect end to a great day. We took the
opportunity as well to spend time together sharing and growing as a
group. The perfect conclusion to a great day. Today was spent mostly in
running off 60 miles on our journey south to Victoria. Starboard watch
valiantly weighed anchor early in the dissipating twilight of dawn as
tendrils of fog slowly relinquished their grasp on the cove. We passed
behind Flores Island taking advantage of the protection it offered from
the swells gathering on the outer coast. It was a beautiful change of
scenery wending and winding our way through the narrow channels of
Clayquot Sound. The last of the fog burnt of early allowing us to spend
the whole day enjoying the sunshine and clear views of the coast once we
cleared Tofino and its sandy treasures. The day passed pleasantly with
people working on various arts and crafts and enjoying each others
company. We have settled for the night at Effingham Island, providing
shelter from the persistent swell and providing refuge in which to
consume our delicious roast beef dinner in peace. Tonight we will have
service as day 7 is traditionally "boat Sunday". Everyone is doing very
well and cautiously eyeing the remaining few days.